2003 Solo Kayak Expedition Upernavik Kangersuatsiaq
Laksefjord, Orpit, Icecap Aappilattoq Upernavik, Greenland
Gail E. Ferris
7/21/03
packing and preparation at home in Sony
Creek, CT
kayak: set up boat called Mark Eckhardt about
problems in frame he took my advice.
fishing: I repaired my
freshwater telescoping fishing rod and replaced reel with an old reliable spin
casting Garcia reel. Prepared the
jigging lures converting the treble hooks on of the lures to a single hook for
catching Ulk / Shorthorned Sculpin because the treble hook is too much of a
project to get out of the fish's mouth.
Took lures with bright spinner and tied treble hook with either white,
white and red or orange and red. The
spinner is white with red or silver with red or gold with red. Red is the key color for attracting most
fish in the Arctic.
7/22/03
Electronic data
recording equipment
Because I can type faster than I can write
and I hate doing things twice I bought the Sony CLIE SJ 22 for electronically
recording my data. I was pleased with
how well it functioned. I found the
action and design of the keys on the PEGA-KB11 CLIE keyboard felt very
comfortable I could type for hours on this keyboard. Unfortunately during in my trip the Clie lost its charge I
suspect was due to the cold and never functioned. Currently I use it at club meetings to record minutes and it
functions perfectly www.sonystyle.com.hk/clie/app/sj22/index.jsp
preparation of food is in progress I
am taking mostly food which does not have to be cooked major ingredient will be
rolled oats, but seeds especially high in both fats and proteins are the second
most important in my diet neither items require cooking.
Paddles Warner take apart 7.5 foot or 230 cm Werner Wenatchee whitewater paddle
feathered left right or unfeathered.
Spare paddle is the same.
7/23/03
packing Today because it is
raining intermittently I am working on several items I need to finish up the
food and pack all the food into small drybags.
GPS prep and
batteries I am taking is the Garmin GPS 76 which floats as well as being
waterproof and runs on 2 Aappilattoq rechargeable batteries. The fact that this GPS floats is a good
quality. My previous GPS was much
heavier and filled up with water while sitting in the bottom of my kayak
overnight rendering it useless.
I added a lanyard to the battery cover and
to keep track of which battery is where I number the batteries inside so that
when I recharge these batteries I will know which battery is which.
solar panel I installed on my Unisolar Flexible UFF-5 solar panel www.hamiltonferris.com/
cigarette lighter female plug. This was the perfect solution because all my
auto rechargers have a male cigarette lighter plugs.
I am taking 4 FM-50 batteries for my still
camera http://store.yahoo.com/laptopsforless/digcamlition1.html
after market batteries. NP-FM50,
Lithium-Ion. The lithium ion batteries are much better than the old NiCad batteries
because they hold a larger charge and weigh much less. I used to carry tons of extra weight just in
batteries and I would shoot very short video scenes because I never knew when
my batteries might die.
I packed the traditional waterproof writing
pad and pen Rite-in-the-Rain the same I have been using reliably since 1989, just
in case! www.riteintherain.com/.
Still
Camera: I replaced my Olympus OM-1N
with a Sony Mavica MVC–CD400 www.sonystyle.com/ digital camera taking both still and
low resolution video. I experimented
taking close up pictures this camera will go to 1/10 of a meter so it captures
spider silk and pollen on flowers nicely.
This
camera uses mini CDs which is so much easier than tape because the cd is non
linear and very inexpensive a package of 50 costs $36.00 http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/SY_DisplayProductInformation-Start?ProductSKU=50CDQ22LSKIT
The
Sony Mavica MVC–CD400 uses lithium batteries NP-FM50. I took four NP-FM50, Lithium-Ion
batteries and I bought my extra batteries via
http://store.yahoo.com/laptopsforless/digcamlition1.html at $29.00.
I had a problem keeping my batteries recharged and I suspect that my
solar panel was not able to function at full capacity or that the operating
temperature was too low. Slightly
overcast weather with temperatures in the 50’s may have been a contributing
factor as instructions do state the recharging is done between 50 and 86
degrees F. Ah the Arctic it is just a
little cold there, even in the summer.
Food prep packing I choose Glad bags
sandwich bags because the zippers close the best and the colored yellow and
blue sides of the zippers are much easier to visually match up becoming green
when joined securely.
The weekly supply of food includes grains
and seeds I am taking are two sandwich bags full of old fashioned rolled oats,
sesame seeds, raw flax seeds, raw and roasted sunflower seeds, roasted pepita
or pumpkin seeds, dried currents to be eaten raw and carried readily available
in the cockpit while underway. Separate
bags of brown sugar, unsweetened carob chips, Soy Quick beverage, ground
lentils, etc. were planed for cooked meal eating. Approximate total weight of each drybag is 6.5 lbs. a supply for
each week. None of the food is freeze
dried on this trip however on other trips I utilized combined freeze dried
foods with dehydrated.
Each bag will
have an easy to read label with a number for each week so I do not start using
the food from one bag and then another and wind up with an unbalanced choice of
food.
One big factor in the choice of food is
taste. I will have plenty of the
essential ingredients however subtle things such as flavor I will have in the
foods from Fantastic www.fantasticfoods.com
, 6 to 7 serving 7 oz. packages of
Spinach Parmesan Hummus, Refried Beans, Spinach Hummus, and Poulenta. Casbah four serving 7oz. packages
of Lemon Spinach CousCous and Nuts with Currants and Spice CousCous. All of
these items are designed to be boiled for 5 minutes however I find that I can
make them with boiling water poured over them in a polyethylene closed container
allowed to stand for 10 minutes.
Previously I discovered that dehydrated foods with particle sizes less
than quarter inch diameter can be made with boiling water poured over them in
an opaque polyethylene closed container allowed to stand for 10 minutes.
Now there are Ziplock and other companies
making Seal & Lock containers for microwave, freezer and dishwasher, which
I suspect will not heat stress crack as the opaque polyethylene containers do.
Drybags I am able to fit
each week supply of food into a Bone Dry expedition dry bag lined with sewn
Tyvek lined bags. I made Tyvek liners
because the interior of the drybags tends to grab being not at all slippery
making them hard to fill.
I need to design and make foam padded bags
for the camera and Clie SJ-22
Wild Food: I will augment my food by catching
Ulk and if I am lucky enough catching sea urchins and possibly some shellfish
especially clams. Green Sea urchins are
lovely. Ulk are dumb easy to catch.
packing and
preparation 7/24/03
Some of my important contacts are Adam Grim
at Aapillatoq, http://iserit.greennet.gl/adamgrim/
, Upernavik Museum, Bo Albrechtsen Museumsleder upernavik.museum@greennet.gl and Kjeld
Hansen, Vikingskib Museum, Roskilde, DENMARK.
I will gather bird data and lichen samples.
I bought a Davis Mark3 sextant the old one
lost the silver off the mirrors. I
packed my maps and found my protractor. I added string through the middle of the protractor so that I can
measure angles over large surfaces on the maps. I have both 1:80,000 and 1:250,000 maps.
I can take a reading with the GPS and the
sextant. Then I can extrapolate with
the protractor on the map to double check where I am. I will use the sextant as a protractor or http://www.celestaire.com/catalog/Marine_Sextants/Davis/
as a peloris to measure the angles between landforms among these fjords. There are endless islands and peninsulas of
granite just perfect for this type of navigating. www.celestaire.com/page7.html Davis Mark 3 sextant. This plastic sextant is crude but it is fine for this application
the mirrors loose their silver in the salt water.
I also just for fun brought a magnetic
compass. Frederica DeLaguna mentioned that her compass would tell her where all
the oar bodies on the islands in Upernavik were. There is large
deposits extremely pure iron in this area. This is described as hypersthene
iron. http://mineral.galleries.com/minerals/silicate/hypersth/hypersth.htm
I put together all the electronic equipment
into a small 6-inch diameter dry bag.
Considering what I have for equipment this trip, it is amazing that this
equipment weighs one tenth of what I previously carried and has much greater capability.
The solar panel transformers each have their
own little bag. I put the Aappilattoq
solar panel recharger in with the other items because everything is charged up
for the moment. I have 8 Aappilattoq
batteries total and the battery tester so I will know which battery needs to be
recharged.
For the Clie I modified the original bag by
sewing in a partition and adding on a small bag just for the computer cable
however I will not be able to connect it to a computer and read the contents
because I am not taking the CD with the software program to hook both
together. I wouldn't be surprised if
Adam Grim happens to have the software.
Adam is a computer wiz.
For a radio I am taking the Grundig Mini 100
PE, which is powered by 2 Aappilattoq batteries this radio handles FM, AM and
SW divided into 6 bands it is not digital tuning. Its size is about the size of a cigarette package with a built in
speaker, plug in earphones and a monaural converter for the earphones.
For testing Aappilattoq batteries I bought a
Radio Shack #22-093 tests all batteries in that range D, C, AA, Aappilattoq and
9V.
maps I am taking are:
ONC-B8, lower right corner includes Kap
Seddon to Søndre Upernavik,
Grønlands Vestkyst, Prøven (Kangersuatsiaq)
- Upernavik # 1710 scale 1:80,000 latitude 73 degrees 30 minutes shows height
in meters and soundings in meters 50 meter between contour lines.
Igdlorssuit Sund to
Prøven #38420 contour intervals 200 meters
Saga Map Upernavik 1:250,000
Saga
Map Upernavik Nord Upernavik Avannarleq contours 50 meters 1:250,000
Geological Map Sheet 4 Upervavik Isfjord
1:500,000 contours 200 meters
7/25/03 packing
I packed a printout of geology in Upernavik
in with the botany, bird and lichen identification material I photocopied years
ago. I thought it might be handy this
time to read about the local geology while I am looking at rocks and
plants. There are some interesting
deposits of calcium among the igneous granite and there are basalt formations
there. Sanderson's Hope a 4000 ft high
mountain is all basalt blocks.
I made sure everything has a lanyard on it
that is to be on deck.
I started working on my life jacket. I am taking a regular foam whitewater jacket
which I added a large pocket on the back.
I am debating if it is worth taking the EPIRB. It does work.
7/26/03
I telephoned HC to make the initial plans to
visit Kangersuatsiaq to visit Samuel Knudsen a most gifted artist and writer.
Although this may sound extremely trivial I
packed earplugs because I find a slatting tent very nerve wracking. The only escape is to either use earplugs or
leave the tent. I have never adjusted to
the continual din of slatting tent fabric.
From LLBean I will wear for regular walking
a pair of Snow Sneakers VN# 05365, because they are lightweight, waterproof and
close with Velcro.
Greenland Rejse Bureau 011 45 3313 1011, Copenhagen@greenland-travel.dk
.
Greenland
Air 011 299 34 3434, Upernavik Tourist Service 011 299 96 1700.
I found out I can camp near the helicopter
port at Upernavik. I would have to take
a taxi to the heliport and then haul all of my gear to the site on my
back. This trek would be physically
demanding because this is a lengthy walk up and over and then down again to the
camping area aside the water.
If the rocks are wet they are slippery
another unwelcome risk I would have to cope with.
I have camped in that place before. I especially like that spot because water
comes right down the hill and it is easy to launch my kayak from the flat rock
ramps there. These ramps are gradual
and face west which allows me to roll my kayak on pool noodles up and down the
ramps. At the top of the ramp I can
lift the kayak to safety up on top of a rock ledge and tie it off above the
reach of the waves.
I could tell this would be the case by the
condition of plants on the rocks because the plants do not show wave
erosion.
Now that I am over fifty my long distance
vision has deteriorated to my needing glasses.
From an experience while wearing glasses when rowing, I discovered that
I do need peripheral vision I choose to wear contact lenses. I have worked out a system for being able to
wear them without needing to remove them for months by constantly lubricating
them every time I feel them becoming dry especially when I wake up at night. I take
the precaution of always having a 5 ml bottle of eye drops with me.
The reason why I
prefer contact lenses is that my eyes are fully functional near, far and
peripheral vision at all times.
The advantage I have with lenses is I have
much better overall vision allowing a noticeable improvement my responses are
much quicker in avoiding flying objects of danger to my eyes and complete
peripheral vision. Even having been
sprayed directly in my eye with pressurized water did not dislodge a lens
however I have not tried swimming with them on. I gather that since they are a good fit swimming would not cause
them to dislodge.
For
fine reading I need glasses.
travel agenda
07/31/03 leave car at home, be driven to
airport via private carrier due to excess baggage
07/31/03 Depart Newark NJ SAS at 17:10
08/01/03 Arrive Copenhagen Denmark 06:50 am
08/01/03 Depart Copenhagen Denmark Greenland Air 09:15 am
08/01/03 Arrive
Kangerlussuaq/Søndrestrøm Greenland 09:55 am
08/01/03 Depart Kangerlussuaq Greenland Greenland Air 10:30 am
08/01/03 Arrive Ilulissat 12:05 pm
Overnight
Ilulissat/Jachobshavn I stayed at the sports hall as I have done in the past
for 100 Dkr much cheaper than a hotel.
08/02/03 Depart
Ilulissat Greenland Air 13:40
08/02/03 Arrive Upernavik 15:05
My return travel
was:
8/26/03 Depart Upernavik
Greenland Air 15:10
8/26/03 Arrive Ilulissat
16:35
8/26/03 Overnight Ilulissat
8/27/03 Arrive
Kangerlussuaq 08:00
8/27/03 Depart
Kangerlussuaq Greenland Air 11:10
8/27/03 Arrive Copenhagen Denmark 19:30
Store
luggage at airport, take cab to Youth Hostel closest to airport, Overnight at
Copenhagen Youth Hostel
8/28/03 Depart
Copenhagen Denmark SAS 12:05
8/28/03 Arrive
Newark, NJ 14:30
8/28/03 be
driven home via private carrier due to excess baggage
arrival at Upernavik
I flew from
Ilullisat to Upernavik arriving at 3:30 in the afternoon. http://members.eisa.com/~ec086636/greenland.htm
What a thrill to
finally fly into Upernavik by fixed wing aircraft, a Dash 7. I had lived in Upernavik when construction
of the airport was begun in 1998 but I left in 1999.
The construction
job required specialized heavy equipment and explosives to blow up the rock
brought in by ship from Denmark.
Everything comes
from Denmark, which is much farther away than Canada or USA because Greenland
is a colony of Denmark.
Upernavik Island
itself is solid granite with a thin layer of dirt as are all of the islands in
this region.
Such a joy it
was to feel the airplane glide low over Lang Island and just kiss the ground on
touch down just a very short distance away.
I was completely surprised that the pilot flew over Sanderson’s at 1042
meters and in 3.5 nautical miles dropped down to 220 meters and in 1 nautical
mile landed us at 150 meters without gaining speed. When he brought us down he reversed props just about dime landing
us at the very start of the runway.
Dash 7 aircraft
are designed as short runway aircraft and in this experience of landing at
Upernavik I would describe as “dime” landing aircraft. www.airgreenland.gl/viewPage.php
This airport
runs north south with absolutely no shelter as it runs down the spine of the
island. There are times when flights
have to be canceled because the cross winds are easily enough to flip an
airplane on its back in a moment. It
can get fiercely windy in Upernavik.
Now there is consistent
taxi service in Upernavik, which was not the way it was in the past. In the past I have used Lasø, Upernavik
Museum and the school to transport me and all of my bags. And guess what they took me for free. I live a charmed life!
This time when I arrived
coincidentally by my own innocent mistake I thought I recognized a solid
looking hardworking gentleman as the school janitor. I thought that just as in the past that I could simply ask him
for a free ride with all my bags down the hill to the water or where ever. This time I felt my gratis request was even
more justified because I was looking for HC the school director a very dear
friend.
Oh the things we do, and
so innocently too!
I walked up to
Lars whom I had mistaken as the school janitor. Even though he drove a truck for Lasø Company I just assumed the
truck was on loan to the school for some temporary reason.
What emboldened
me further was that Lars happened resembled my dear friend HC a very solid
older Dane, the best type.
And the plot
thickens!
Unawares I told
Lars that I wanted to find HC. I was
very serious about it and he took me very seriously.
We started off
by driving to HC’s house but he was not at home so we continued, droving down
to the bottom of the hill to the harbor because we knew that HC keeps his boat
there. We both decided that he must be
there.
Sure enough HC
was on his boat. He was not off sailing
because he was involved with some repair.
This time of
year every one in Greenland goes to visit their relatives by motorboat any time
they have the opportunity during the summer.
http://iserit.greennet.gl/nickykr/upernavik-uk.html
Visiting by boat
is an ancient tradition stemming from when these seafaring people traveled in
umiaqs. Each town is on an island; the
only way is during the winter by dog sled or now snow mobile and in the summer
presently by motorboat or in the past by umiaq. http://www.upernivik.gl/images/Den%20gamle%20butik/DSCN0033.JPG
http://www.upernivik.gl/The%20Old%20Shop.htm
Lars took me to
the harbor side where I used to always launch when I lived in Upernavik from
1997 to 1999. The area had now been
filled in with rock to reshape the harbor for a second pier. Now the rock ramps were buried under 15 to
20 feet of rock, thus eliminating that area for launching my kayak.
I was surprised
at this change but this does improve the harbor for accommodating large ships
and boats in general.
From that harbor
I decided the only possibility was to have my things taken to the museum and
launch the next day from the Old Harbor.
I asked Lars to
drive me across town. On the way I
mentioned to Lars that I did not know where Bo Albrectsen the museum director
lived. http://iserit.greennet.gl/inussuk/dk-sider/dk-index.htm
Just at that
moment we happened to be opposite his house. Lars immediately turned into the driveway telling me that Bo lived
there and that he was working on his house outside.
Sure enough Bo
was up on a ladder fitting planks into the side of his house. He came down and Lars introduced me to
him. www.nkhorizons.com/index.html
I had never met
Bo except by talking with him on the telephone. Bo and I became instant friends because we share this same
passion for this special place in Greenland.
I was able to overnight in comfort thanks to the generous hospitality of
Bo.
I had plenty of extra time my friends were not around whom I had
expected to find in town because they were off visiting elsewhere and were not
returning until school started the following week.
I stopped at the police station I knew some of them from years earlier
and met the new police chief. We had
coffee together this is the typical Greenland hospitality on this sort of
occasion. I told the policeman and
others in town that I was going to Kangersuatsiaq however I did not know or
realize that for these people they either must know when I was going to be
arriving or I should contact them to tell them where I am as I am making the
journey. This means that I need to have
a satellite phone for my next visit to Upernavik.
I had no idea that in this culture such an issue would be so
important. HC told me this important
information.
In 1989 when I was at Pond Inlet no one seemed to care when anyone was
arriving all they cared about was where were they going but when they got there
did not matter. I thought the culture
had not changed but indeed Inuit culture has changed greatly in these last few
years with the invention of the satellite phone.
8/2/03 Launch from Old Harbor
The next morning was bright and sunny with a friendly sea running. The sky was blue as blue could be and the
water was a deep blue all the rocks showed their beautiful shades of pink, tan
and white granite minerals. This was to
be a beautiful day for taking photographs while I was on the water. The far away islands looked as though they
were only just over there, a refractory day.
Sanderson’s Hope the pyramidal mountain had hardly a cloud near it. The day looked glorious, just the day to get
on the water and go.
We all were in a hurry, I convinced a friend of mine to drive me with my
bags to the Old Harbor to save myself
all the time and effort of lugging my boat and gear.
I assembled my kayak on the convenient granite ramp. I always have to remind myself to be careful
and methodical so I do not have to disassemble and reassemble the whole thing
as I discover that I forgot something.
Some fellows who knew me were working at their motorboats eyeing me and
I told them I was going to Kangersuatsiaq.
Of course in Greenland when you tell somebody something it travels all
over the commune before you know it.
Naturally everyone in Kangersuatsiaq and Upernavik knew what I was up
to. It is a little difficult to arrive
with all sorts of baggage pull out a red boat put it together and take off
without being noticed. Word gets around
“that American lady, you know ----, well she is back again and guess what?“
My kayak went together without a hitch a great relief to me. The rudder assembled and the cables ran
easily through all the holes connecting up with the foot pedals. I put the seat in which took some thinking
because it was different from the Klepper seat but it went in fine. I tested the seat and foot pedals just to be
sure that they were where I wanted them.
I knew that once I launched I would not come in for a landing for many
miles because of the sea running I would have to go around a corner an paddle a
number of miles to find a landing place out of the waves.
I have never been able to adjust my seat when I am on the water alone. It is just not possible.
Now comes the loading part. I
brought my boat closer to the water because I wanted it as close as possible
once it was loaded for the launching. I put on my drysuit and brought down the
rest of my equipment.
I had never loaded down a kayak with loading ports. Wow what a difference. The loading went so quickly my drybags,
which are 6 inch cylinders just slid through those hatches like greased lightening. I loaded the largest bags first and ended
with my shortest ones last. I was just
shocked. I couldn’t believe loading
could be this easy. I am so accustomed
to that gruesome fight when I load my Kleppers.
The deck hatches are designed for expedition paddling. The outer cover fits over a solid ring that
is glued and sewn into the deck. This
hatch cover is watertight and attached firmly to the kayak inside the cockpit
lip with Delrin fittings and one-inch nylon webbing so they can be removed if
necessary but can be resecured solidly.
The inner deck hatch is water tight of flexible Teflon coated nylon with
a fold over seal that clips together with Delrin fittings just like a
drybag. The deck hatches are very solid
and water tight.
In a moment not only did I have my boat loaded but also I could adjust
my load for distribution side-to-side and front to back. I was able to reach everything. I was able to tie all the bags so that if
the worst was to happen such as my boat filling up with water I knew that my
gear would stay where I put it within the boat. I did not have to worry about my load shifting destabilizing my
kayak. That was a great relief as it is
a well-known fact that the gear floats into the cockpit in a swamped kayak.
I arranged my deck so that everything I would need I could reach from my
seat. The stunt kite for auxiliary
power should I not be able to paddle, was tied on in place of the sail I used
to carry. The extra paddle was put into
the paddle holders on the outside of the deck.
The bowline was tied off where I could easily reach it. The tuck under spray skirt was on securely
and the sponsons were fully inflated.
Inside the cockpit shock cord loops were tied in place with food, water,
fishing gear and other items within my reach.
My deck had extra D ring tie downs, which I threaded bungie cord through
making X’s and cross lines crisscrossing between the mast step and cockpit lip
of my expedition sprayskirt.
The map in my chart case on one side was set for local paddling and
opposite side for long distance paddling.
Beneath this bungie across my deck just In front of me I positioned and
tied on my chart case with a short bungie cord of its own so that I could pull
it out from beneath the deck bungies read it in my lap and flip it over.
I took the first waypoint on my GPS and tied onto the deck. The GPS I would access and put in waypoints
whenever I came across anything especially interesting or a bird-nesting
site. The GPS shows reading much more
precisely than trying to figure them out on the map later.
In this part of the trip I am already fully familiar with this area.
In my lifejacket were my binoculars, EPIRB, Mylar space blanket, my
hood, sun and insect lotion, emergency food, matches, wool gloves and mosquito
head net.
My clothing beneath my Kokotat drysuit was two thin layers of polyethylene
underwear a heavy wool sweater a Telfon coated fabric jacket and pants, wool
socks on my feet.
Outside of my drysuit I was wearing my sunglasses, baseball cap
windproof scarf
On my paddles were my pogies.
Between my legs was to be the camera in a drybag.
Behind my seat I put two partially one gallon bags of water. I had gotten the water at the museum. I always carry extra water so that if I have
to camp where there is no water I will be okey. I figured from my other trips that I use a gallon of water in a
day.
I did not bring any firearms because in this area since there are so
many people constantly on the water I am unlikely to encounter a polar bear and
walrus are seem once a year at most.
I took a look at the waves motor boating friends suggested I wait for
the seas to die down or take the longer protected inside route. There had been high seas for at least a week
caused by storms off shore most likely to the north because the seas and winds
were from the north. The wind was 15
knots seas 2 to 3 feet, not all that bad but for motor boaters going south as I
was to Kangersuatsiaq this was a miserable ride.
I looked and said to myself “Oh boy this is going to be a nice free
ride. The wind and the waves will push
me right down to Kangersuatsiaq”.
A friend from Tassiusaq helped me launch he looked a little anxious but
I bet I also looked anxious too. I felt
so wonderful getting into my kayak at long last.
Launching required we pick up the ends of the kayak and carry it to the
water. The Mark I does have excellent
handles very well attached to the hull capable of sustaining the weight of a
loaded kayak.
Even though this was the first time I have paddled this kayak I had no
the least bit of doubt in my mind that this would be a wonderful kayak.
I was not worried about if this kayak could handle this condition of following seas.
I couldn’t resist and so I
choose the outside route. This was the
route I had taken in 1993 and I felt reunited with this world I missed so much
after all these years and overcoming all these fears, which had prevented me
from undertaking this special trip. I
had a goal and I was fulfilling this goal that I had set for myself while I was
working at the Upernavik Museum in 1998 when I came across Samuel Knudsen’s
linoleum prints of Kvitoker. It was
these prints that inspired me to go and see this gifted man, to go to the town
he lives in and to buy some of his prints so that I could have them for myself
and to share these prints with the rest of the world. Gifted artists need their gifts to be shared wit the rest of the
world.
Setting off in these
following seas I wanted to take advantage of the free ride I would get from
being pushed along by the following seas and wind. GPS position at Upernavik
was 72
32.890´N, 56 09.231W http://encarta.msn.com/encnet/features/mapcenter/map.aspx?refid=701550020
I knew the Mark 1 was
designed with its longer waterline, hybrid rudder and expedition spray skirt to
handle these waves. There is nothing
like a good ride in the waves with an absolutely comfortable boat.
I started out heading into
the sun passing Sanerardleq Island a small island where people from Upernavik
camp in the summer. Then I passed
Pamiua/Søndre Næs a long steep peninsula on Langø/Akia Island. Then I stayed more out to sea I did not feel
like hugging the shore. I passed nearer
to Madsens ø / Timilia Island because it just seemed to fit the character of
this trip. My trip on the open water
would be the shortest most direct route to Kangersuatsiaq.
I had paddled close to this
island Qaersorssuaq / Sandersons Hope.
I enjoyed feeling my kayak
passing so deftly over the two and three foot waves as the wind pushing me very
nicely along.
Then I spotted one of those
landmarks that just takes your breath away.
It was the cliffs at Ingia.
Here I paddled closer to
this large island, Qaersorssuaq.
At Qaersorssuaq Island on
the last west facing peninsula, Ingia, were brilliant white bands of
porphyritic feldspar interlacing with brown granite. http://geology.csupomona.edu/alert/igneous/texture.htm
http://geology.csupomona.edu/alert/igneous/igmin.htm
I took some exquisite
pictures of the brilliant minerals with my kayak bow in the foreground and the
deep blue water leading up to the dramatic white striped brown cliffs
surrounded with bright blue sky.
This area Upernavik is well
known for its profusion of flowers this comes from the widespread potassium
feldspar in the granite, which enriches the soil fertilizing the plants. www.pgrgem.com/color/datasheets/pgrplag.html
I was more or less paddling
in a straight line or at least it looked straight to me in my kayak.
I decided to head between
two islands, Tine and Anaanaa. I had
not seen before from my kayak
Paddling became more
interesting. The waves bunched up in
the restrictions between the islands, which made me perk up and take
notice.
I found a few birds on these
islands.
Then I headed for the next
opening between the islands Kangeq and Singarnaq. Between the previous and these islands was a good view of Sorthul
/ Akornat although I took a picture it was not as exciting as if I had been
closer in. This area is famous as a
bird nesting site for Awks. Thousands
of birds come to nest every year here. www2.dmu.dk/1_viden/2_Publikationer/
3_fagrapporter/rapporter/FR345.pdf
I felt very pleased with my
kayak because I was very comfortable in it and liked the way it handled in
these following seas.
I found it was easy to open
my sprayskirt, take out my camera from its drybag, take pictures put my camera
away, close up my spray skirt, consult my GPS and be underway.
On Kangeq and Singarnaq
Islands I spotted a navigational markers and noted some more birds.
I could have probably
stopped on Singarnaq Island and camped but I had energy to push on. I had made about 19 miles. I was making such fine progress and I was
pleased to be accomplishing long open crossings. My longest crossing was seven
miles. Those long crossings were a major accomplishment for me. I felt comfortable doing them and I felt
comfortable with my kayak.
All was going along fine but
as the chaotic following seas began building and I could feel the need for more
helm control I readjusted my rudder depth to give me more grab, I really didn’t
want to go for a broach. The rudder
adjusted perfectly smoothly while all was chaos around me. I thought to myself “Nothing like a good
rudder”.
I put my camera away and closed up my spray skirt. It was time to experience my kayak showing
her colors. The fetch was beginning to
have an more decided effect.
After the long stretch from
between Kangeq and Singarnaq Islands as I was padding in a restriction between
Qalilik and Sagdleq Island I had one moment when a large especially steep wave
grabbed me.
Sudden acceleration took
place as the steep wave hurled me. I
felt my kayak rear up on a steep angle and start to lunge violently down the
face of the wave. My kayak was about to
bury its bow going over for a pearl or an ender. http://www.niftytricks.com/kayak/ftricks/pender.html
In a flash I leaned out on
my paddle hard in a low brace to slow down.
From all my years of
paddling both open water and whitewater slalom as I instinctively I leaned out
on my flattened paddle in a low brace toward the oncoming wave, my kayak
responded nicely by slowing down. The
rip snorting wave passed innocently under my hull. Whew! that was a little touchy moment. Now the waves had built up with just enough momentum in these
narrows to get my attention.
I stopped periodically to
take GPS readings where I saw birds on rocks.
There were not more than 25 birds in any group I saw on my journey
southward.
|
#8 |
08/03/03 |
16:11 EDT |
72 46.967´N |
55 56.870´W |
Singatnaq Ø singarnap nua small bird nesting site |
|
#9 |
08/03/03 |
16:11 EDT |
72 32.888´N |
55 56.864´W |
Singatnaq Ø singarnap nua small bird nesting site |
|
#10 |
08/03/03 |
18:56 EDT |
72 27.927´N |
55 47.355´W |
Sagdleq Ø bird cliffs small
bird nesting site |
I used my camera just
pulling it out of the drybag and clicking pictures as necessary. I had taken the precaution before of
installing an Ultraviolet filter mounted on a cone, which protected the
telescoping lens completely.
The last thing I wanted to
have happen was some seawater to get into my camera. I checked my camera for sea water by licking the housing anytime
I thought I might be getting some salt onto it as salt can come from my fingers
or anywhere. I had no problem taking
pictures in these 15 to 20 knot following seas. Some of the settings I had set such as film speed at ASA 200 but
I adjusted the zoom wide-angle focus to suit the image I wanted to
capture. I let the camera operate on
auto focus because the camera could take better pictures on these settings than
me. I was bouncing up and down rather
abruptly.
I found with correct light
conditions I could take a picture that is of the same quality while driving my
car at 50 mph just as if I were stopped.
I found generally the camera
takes better pictures than I except on close up.
Sunlight
early August
At 11 pm the light was just a grey half light as the sun does not set
until some time in mid August, depending on which mountain you are behind or on
top of.
Each town has its own sunset time because of the local topography in
Kullorsuaq we were behind Holm Island so we had to wait for the sun to rise
over the mountains on that island due south of us. That day is a big celebration.
A way of cheating if you want to is to take a plane or helicopter ride
but that is not fair!
In Upernavik I walked up to the teledisk, which is the highest point on
the island, it did not make much difference the official sunrise was really the
best sunrise.
Sun set in Upernavik except late fall occurs over open water most of the
year so there is not way to extend that time.
The weirdest thing in December and January is to watch the moon go
around and around turning different
colors
as it goes in the middle of the winter.
There is nothing weirder than seeing a full moon in yellow, orange and
pink.
Back to camping my first night I retrieved all my things through my deck
hatches.
Deck
Hatches
Deck hatches are so nice, you don’t have to stand on your head and do
extreme contortions trying to get that thing you need which has now just slid
itself beyond your fingertips. Oh yes
there are all sorts of little advices given to paddlers such as pack all the
things you need the most nearest your cockpit.
Sure great idea. Fine that means
most of everything.
Unloading
for camping
Then of course the hardest things to get out are cooking things, tent
and sleeping bag because they are bulky.
I opened my deck hatches and took out the drybags, which had my
necessary overnight camping gear. I
pushed the gear into my shoulder bags, slung them onto my shoulders and trudged
up the bank in search of a flat spot to sleep.
The ground was soft and hummocky but that was not all that bad, better
than had it been littered with sharp rock.
I saw the low remains of what had been sod house walls from earlier than
the 1960’s.
I found a spot in between the soft damp grassy lumps and bumps, which
were not too bad, just slightly slanted fairly comfortable spot. I plopped my gear down. I was sleepy. I was so sleepy that I had trouble bothering with do anything
other than just crawling inside my sleeping bag and nodding off
immediately.
I returned to my kayak to tie it off both bow and stern with my bow and
throw line and close up the hatches and cockpit properly.
On the way back up the bank, which was soft but relatively steep I
noticed many fragments of bone washing out of the sod. The only explanation for this is that this
island had been lived upon, how long I do not know but I have the feeling that
it is a favourite place for hunting that has been used for untold ages. I was very excited to think that here I had
come all the way from America and by accident to have found this place where
people have been because they liked this spot.
Such is the excitement of being in the Arctic.
I pulled out my tent only to discover that it was not in the shape I had
packed it age had caught up with it.
The urethane coated fabric had decomposed to just shreds. Oh boy now what.
I was not going to let that bother me the weather was fine I was
comfortable dry and warm thanks to my Kokotat Gore-Tex drysuit. I couldn’t have been more comfortable while
paddling between the Kokotat drysuit and the ride of the Mark I and its
wonderful seat design.
I pulled out my Gore-Tex bivi sack, sleeping bag, Thermarest pad www.the
rmarest.com/ and space blankets assembled everything took off my
drysuit crawled in and fell asleep. I
ate some oatmeal seed mix when I felt hungry and drank some water.
It was a quiet evening and next morning there was a grey sky with slight
mist over the water.
8/3/03 I ate breakfast broke camp packed my boat and got underway. No waves.
I headed for the last few miles to Kangersuatsiaq a little town I had
heard about but never got to set foot in.
Previously in 1993 ten years before this trip I paddled in this area but
I did not have the confidence to paddle the open water to this town I was
afraid. I dreaded the crossing and
thought months and months about the four mile crossing I was to make to
Eqaluarsuit / Laksefjorden.
This trip 2003 I had to face paddling much longer distances between
landing points passages I had resolved my fears by overcoming them through my
spiritual life. Discovering that I am an alcoholic and doing something about
it, joining AA. I carry a bible with me
and read the psalms because the psalms speak directly to me about how only
faith in a higher power, God, is the only way to handle my acute fright.
8/3/03 I awoke to a slightly grey morning with a quiet sea my boat
resting on the rocks slightly jammed in among them but no harm done to my
rudder.
I ate my dry breakfast of oatmeal, seeds and dried fruit and drank some
water. I was so glad that I did not
have to have caffeine what a relief to be rid of that addiction. My philosophy about living life and
exploration is try to get rid of things that waste time and energy. For this reason I got rid of the caffeine
addiction which took some doing. I had
to cut down for two weeks to a half a cup a day before I could get rid of the
headache that would come if I did not have my coffee. I purposefully have short
hair so that my hair stays out of my way and if I forget to bother with combing
it in the morning it doesn’t matter. I
wear contact lenses all the time so I don’t have to bother with having to find
my glasses.
Packing the boat
I packed myself back into my boat with another one of those just pop the
drybags through the hatches, put the lids on and be gone type of deals. So fast and easy I couldn’t believe it again
I missed standing on my head doing all sorts of awful contortions to do the
gruesome task of jamming my bags past the foot pedals and you can imagine the
rest. Nothing like deck hatches, so
nice.
Launching
I slid and worked my kayak over the slippery seaweed coated rocks in to
the water.
I went about this holding onto the boat as I stepped from rock to rock
and when I felt I had to I walked on both my hands as well as my feet. I used any method I could think of to avoid
slipping and falling on these two foot boulders.
Artificial hip
subluxation risk
For me with an artificial hip this kind of maneuver is very scary because if I make the wrong move or get my leg jammed
into an odd angle or slip and fall that may be the end of all my kayaking
exploration forever. Should I sublux this artificial joint the possibility of the
same happening again will be even easier.
If this joint becomes subluxed I
will be in intense pain and have to be medically evacuated to the hospital in
Nuuk. This is the last thing I ever
want to have happen when such a situation can with care and thinking be
avoided. Getting in and out of the
kayak cockpit is one of the likely times subluxation can happen.
On the water
I set off for Kangersuatsiaq heading for the next set of islands,
Maniitsoq and Maniitsuarssuk across Angmarqua passage. Those islands had possibIe but rugged
landing spots. They were just
stone. 72 26.835´N, 55 44.615´W
I thought about how lucky I was to have found the nice camping spot on
Sagdleq Island because on all the other islands I passed I rather doubt there
were any campsite areas as nice as that one was. When ever I find remains of houses or tent circles I know the
spot must be nice.
Behind those islands came across about 50 Fulmars feeding behind
Maniitsoq Island I took their picture.
This was to be the last moment I would see these birds feeding. There must have been an organism just below
the surface of the water they were bobbing for. These birds often feed around ice for the same reason.
|
#12 |
08/04/03 |
09:38 EDT |
72 26.835´N |
55 44.617´W |
Manitsuarssuk bird cliffs |
|
#13 |
08/04/03 |
09:38 EDT |
72 26.835´N |
55 44.615´W |
Manitsoq Bird Cliffs |
I continued on now I was a couple miles off Kangeq flanked entirely with
dark brown steep granitic stone that plunges straight into the water. No place to come in for a landing other than
an occasional emergency flat spot just large enough to stand on.
I could hear motor boats on the water because I was five miles from
Kangersuatsiaq / Prøven. I just paddled
along the sea was flat, so I had to work harder there were no waves and wind
behind pushing me along this time.
I had no idea what this place looked like no idea where to come in for a
landing and I sure wondered as I paddled along where do people come in for a
landing. I went past an island with a
navigational marker on it and began to worry suppose I miss the whole thing or
go completely past the harbour because I don’t happen to notice it.
I have seen this in Greenland before with little villages being tucked
in behind some rocky peninsulas. I
could just go right by and never have seen a thing.
I kept wondering where are those motorboats coming from, they have to be
coming out of somewhere over there.
I became really nervous when I saw that there was another navigational
marker. Who knows I thought?
I passed by the outer island and looked at the island to the west it was
uninhabited. The island right in front
of me I saw nothing. Oh boy the town
has to be somewhere those boats are coming out of somewhere.
I was hoping that one of the motorboats would come to me and show me
where to go. That didn’t happen and why
should it for to everybody except me it was obvious.
I remember finding Aappilattoq because it had a big smoky rubbish
fire. If I had to find Innarsiut I
would never find it without a map. I
would find Najat because it is obvious once I found the island it is on.
When you are sitting on land looking out everything looks obvious but
when you are out there on the water everything looks vague.
Then I began to see houses and a church on the island straight in front
of me. That was a relief now at least I
have found the town. Next question is
where is the harbour.
The edge of town I was looking at was flanked entirely with rock slab
with no place to come in for a landing unless I were some expert with suction
cup feet and marvellous agility along with great
strength that would be necessary for heisting my loaded kayak up the steep
granite. Not likely to say the
least. So where is the harbour? It has to be somewhere I thought to myself.
Ah ha I came around the corner and sure enough I saw some motorboats
moored. There it was the harbor with
the pier for ships and next to the pier was a sandy beach, http://www.arktiskebilleder.dk/siulleq/billede/gr37674.html
The whole town was waiting for me all two hundred some odd people
standing on the pier along the road waiting for me.
I guess word got there from Upernavik alright. And funny thing, I never saw a motorboat pass me in my entire
passage from Upernavik down to Kangersuatsiaq.
I guess all that those who made the trip from Upernavik when I was
paddling on the outside took the inside through Sortehul/Akornat to Torssukatak
over though Angmarqua a good double the distance I had paddled
It just goes to show you in a good kayak you can go direct. A kayak is a little more seaworthy except
when the wind hikes up in your face then paddling becomes hard work.
I swung into the beach next to the pier not knowing that I could have
paddled to a beach a little nearer to where my boat was to be placed.
I stepped out of my kayak and in an instant a group of strong fellows
came down and proceeded to grab my kayak.
I stopped them momentarily to take out a few items I carried in my
shoulder bag. They picked my loaded
kayak up by the carrying handles and groaned slightly.
I was a little worried because if those handles ripped out I would be in
big trouble. Luckily the handles held
just fine. Mark had done a good job of
structurally designing this kayak, much better than Klepper. In the Klepper the handles were merely held
into the hull with some stitching, where as Mark had really stitched and glued
these handles into place to take severe stress such as was just being put on
them at this moment.
I followed and met and talked with some people. A young couple started chatting with me they
could speak English. I looked around
and asked if I could buy a tent in town but the KNI store does not sell tents
there was one tent it was a six-person canvas tent. I told them that I could not use a tent as large and heavy as
that tent but it was very kind of the fellow to offer it to me. For tents and camping gear everyone goes to
the KNI store in Upernavik. This store
has a wonderful supply of camping gear along with the hunting equipment,
carpentry just about anything. This is
a long way from the old days when anything aside from the basics had to be
brought in by ship by special order from Denmark. But here I am in Kangersuatsiaq and the store is in
Upernavik. No I am not turning around
and going back to Upernavik I spent too much time getting here, how about ten
years all told. http://www.skolen-upernavik.gl/kangersu.htm
Tent Creation
I found previously that my tent had decomposed chemically into
shards. The four alternating white
panels were coated with some formulation that destroyed the nylon. Oddly the blue panels were still solid. The tent was about 15 years old. Nylon coated or not is stable normally for
many more years. Some urethane coatings
peel off but the nylon remains.
Although in a dire emergency I could sleep beneath two survival blankets
on my air mattress in my sleeping bag enclosed with a Gore-Tex bivy sack I
needed a tent I could sit in for protection from the sun, wind and rain. I
constructed my tent from the remaining liner I had created for my Chouinard
MegaMid, of 1.9 oz ripstop nylon.
Previously I had created this liner to make a 3 season tent of urethane
coated nylon 4 season. The 1.9 oz
ripstop liner would allow my breath to pass through the fabric and condense on
the opposite side. Also the condensate
forming on the inside of the urethane coated tent shell would eventually come
loose and sliding down the surface of the liner between the tent and the liner
rather than raining down on me.
I quietly laughed to myself, who would have guessed my tent would have
disintegrated so completely while rolled up in a stuff bag for a few
years? Really you just never know.
I figured out an alternative tent creation by fabricating a tent from a
combination of my ripstop tent liner that I could tie in place on my center
pole. Then I could construct a
waterproof covering from two of my three Mylar coated fabric survival blankets. These I could tie on top of the tent liner.
I could use a piece of string with a clump of moss, which I would push
as a clump into the ripstop fabric from the back or inside. Then on the ripstop fabric outside I would
tie the string around the neck of the enclosed moss lump forming a button. To that lump I would tie on the space
blanket.
This works just fine for making a tie down spot on place in the middle
of an expanse of fabric without damaging or having to stitch some sort of tie
down onto the fabric. The positions of
these tie down buttons can be adjusted as necessary.
Campsite in
town, Greenland hospitality
I walked around town looking for a place to set up my invented tent and
I did not see anything immediately suitable.
Just then Mete and Hans Kristiansen came along and I asked them if they
could suggest a place I could set up my tent.
Oh boy was I lucky. They asked
me to stay with them in their house just up the road. http://www.arktiskebilleder.dk/siulleq/album/sted_1174469_1.html
Hospitality a
place to stay
Their house was just wonderful.
It high up on a hill overlooking the center of town with a wonderful
view of the harbor to the south on one side and to the north the water and the
way back to Upernavik showing all the islands and mountains. What an incredible view. I could see all those islands and I could
watch the water seeing the condition of the waves and fog. I could see the clouds coming in from the
west heading for the icecap. These
clouds not only showed atmospheric conditions but more interesting to me the
clouds revealed the effect the icecap has on atmospheric interaction between
the outside and interior near the icecap.
I took a wonderful picture, which illustrated incoming clouds being backed
up by denser air from the icecap very clearly.
I could also see Sanderson’s Hope way back in Upernavik when conditions
were clear enough. The other mountains
and islands showed in varying degrees of blueness depending on how far they
were from my vantage point. All this
was very exciting for me. I have seen
such exquisite beauty before during my trip in 1993 to Laksefjorden. I have seen a powerful front coming into
Kullorsuaq being held off by air from the ice cap. That was one of those moments when I was glad I was in a house
not in my kayak about to be blown to who knows where when the fierce wind did
hit.
Just as soon as I could, I retrieved my sleeping gear from my boat and
closed it up from the rain. Luckily in
Greenland there is no problem with theft and wandering sled dogs. Any loose dogs are shot with the exception
in some towns if they are puppies. Dogs
can find things to chew on and an interesting smelling kayak would be a good
target. I have had a boat chewed upon
in Kullorsuaq, not good!
As I climbed up the footpath to Mette’s house I noticed that there was a
seal butchered in a wheelbarrow at the foot of the stairs. I thought to myself this is wonderful. There is nothing better than seal especially
the way Greenlanders’ prepare seal as chunks in boiling salted water with rice
and onions.
Into a shallow soup bowl is ladled this rich broth of seal chunks of
meat with fat included and the rest.
You eat what you like and it all tastes so good. The fat you eat just as much as you feel like
eating not necessarily all that has been given you on the chunks of meat. The dark red meat is especially rich in iron
because seals must have a high haemoglobin content in their blood to enable
them to stay warm and dive for long periods of time. Their fat is very important to keep them warm but to us it is
also very important to keep us warm and enable us to digest the meat protein.
Anton
Christiansen a hunter from Upernavik
Mette’s father, Anton Christiansen from Upernavik was staying with
them. He is a hunter and so he checked
the water every few minutes with spotting scope for seals. I recognized him from Upernavik, he has a
house there. He is on of Greenland’s
finest hunters.
When Mette told me that Anton was a hunter, I was very excited to know
this because Greenland’s culture and economic base is changing such that fewer
people can be hunters in this region.
Every few minutes while he was there Anton looked through his spotting
scope at the water every few minutes for whales, seals and walrus. Then he would give the scope to his grandson
Hans so that he could take a look too.
His grandson was only one year old yet he never let anything escape his
intense curiosity
I have never seen any child as gifted as this boy, Hans, he has an innate
understanding of the world around him a grasp of complex things a deep
perception of reality despite his being barely able to speak yet. I think he is like his grandfather, nothing
escapes him.
From Mette’s house, little Hans stands in the window casing, wearing his
diapers, watching all that happens in town.
He sees from his house all the comings and goings of everyone from one
end of town to the other.
If Anton had spotted any seals he would have been down at the harbour
and off in his yawl in an instant.
Greenlanders do not waste time preparing to hunt. They keep their gear at the ready and just
go the moment they feel it is time to hunt.
Hunters clothing
In Kullorsuaq when I visited Lars Jensen at his father Nikolaj’s house, the only thing they talked about was hunting. And when I went out with Lars to tend fishing line
