Upernavik Greenland 2008 Travel Notes

Innarsuit

Gail Ferris

gaileferris@hotmail.com

 

 

7/23/08

At the last minute I bought a laser jet printer because it prints with waterproof ink.  On Google Earth I printed out the maps on Rite in the Rain waterproof paper with waterproof ink.  Unfortunately the definition of the pages was 20 k feet with 200 dpi and it was worthless to actually try to consult. 

The Saga 1:250 map was much easier to read and relate to.  The laser seems to darken the image print out greatly even though I had tried to fix this problem.  The original 72 dpi is much too vague so that is the story for now and off I am again for another paddling adventure in the Upernavik region of Greenland.

I am using my folding kayak described in.www.nkhorizons.com/Mark1kayakassembly.htm Long Haul Mark 1.

I take a ride across the Upernavik Isfjord because I find that there is too much ice for me to risk the crossing in my kayak.  This story is written about in the webpage at

www.nkhorizons.com/Ammassat.htm finding ammassat fishing sites

 

 

www.nkhorizons.com/Foggy.htm very amusing paddling disastrous experimentation 2008

 

www.nkhorizons.com/GPScrossing.htm  moments when GPS navigation works if you believe it!

 

www.nkhorizons.com/IcebergsSurf.htm when a wave from a large iceberg surfs a small berg after you in the shallows

 

www.nkhorizons.com/IceSurface.htm walking on sea ice tricky deal!

 

www.nkhorizons.com/IceViewedfromCockpit.htm those decision moments what will the ice do?

 

www.nkhorizons.com/LookAtSilverWater.htm little moments when the water is not flat anymore

 

www.nkhorizons.com/RockViewsKayakCockpit.htm views of bright minerals on the edge or the water in Upernavik

 

www.nkhorizons.com/StrategizingIcebergPaddling.htm  where to paddle without risking ice entrapment

 

 

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000 here is the map that shows where I am taking my photos on my first day my position is roughly in the center of the circle.

 

 

 

#001 and here I am looking out at the fog over there

 

 

002 Oh and Where is my kayak? Oops what is that in those green canvas bags?

 

 

 

003 well nice there is no ice over there on the water but those mountains over there do have some but they are near the ice cap you can’t see over there.

 

 

 

004 Something is funny about this picture, is it really me or is it the fog?

 

 

 

005 Hey there are two or three green canvas bags over there and it is foggy looking too!  I thought there was an island out there.

 

 

 

006 Oh this is looking bad glad I am on land right now, it is getting definitely foggier than it was a few minutes ago.

 

 

 

007 Oh look at those wind riffles on the water, beats me which way the wind is blowing and those green bags are just sitting there on the rocks.  What is with those blobby bags anyway?

 

 

008 this is not good, it looks darker out there, I think the fog is getting denser – what do you think?

 

 

009 Well beat that! Something got switched around?  Oh I know - the sun is over there, I am over here, in the middle I guess, and the fog is guess what? It is over there, must be coming in from the west because I am looking down east right now and it is over there to the east.  Glad I am here on land, safe and sound.

 

 

 

010 Now what is this doing here?  What is with that rock propped up on a stone must be one of those chance glacial erratic situations because I shure did not to that.

That is a heavy rock it is about three feet round.

Weren’t there three green canvas bags here last time I looked?  This looks like my kayak.  Oh nice this is my Mark 1 it is a nice kayak I am going to enjoy paddling in this I can tell you.

 

 

011 Oh this looks just fine.  There is that nice rudder and that is a good one.  I remember last time I had to do a 180 turn my kayak in a good 25 knot wind normally a very difficult maneuver but I did it with this rudder, no problem.  I was glad I did not get stuck in irons, broadside in the waves and wind.

That yellow bag on the stern deck is a handy 50 foot throw line, it weighs next to nothing.  The cockpit spray skirt is the expedition type which really keeps me dry.

Tide is down, nice time to grab some sea urchins just a foot under water now.

 

 

012 Whew, now I am on the water.  Tide is low but that is okey.  I am just out looking around.

 

 

 

013 Is this water green or what, guess the algae is having a good time growing like mad in this summer sunshine.  I wonder what is around the corner over there?

I am heading down inside to see what is down there, beats looking at a map and always wondering what is just inside there.  I passed by this area in 2005 but I never came inside to really take a look.

 

 

 

014 Well what do you know it is an opening I wonder if I can actually paddle through or if there is some sort of shallows there guess I just have to go and see.

 

 

015 some interesting stone looks like feldspathic granite.

 

 

016 nice to see some mussels lots of fucus I am on my way out the little passage.

 

 

017 Wow this is a huge amount of filamentous algae this water is really heavily enriched and it is so convenient to look at the bottom with this white feldspar.

 

 

 

018 there is some ice floating about which has come in from the outside.

 

 

 

019 Oh here I am it is open water and look at that line of icebergs out there all that is between me and I wonder how many and where they are drifting to.  Hope they don’t come in here.

 

 

 

020 I am thinking about that chunk of ice just there.

 

 

 

021 There now I am just at the edge of the right side this is the southwest corner of the island I happen to be camping on.  My camp is only just a mile around the other side. I have come around from the north side down eastward inside the passage around to the south and now I have emerged on this with a view of the island a couple miles away

 

 

 

022 Now I am looking across there is a little wind blowing maybe 12 knots.  That is sarfaq on Qaersorssuasiaq island I wonder if those icebergs are actually mile away, that is what they look like from here but it is difficult to tell.

 

 

 

023 Now I have paddled from the rocks you see on the right side over to the left side of this opening.  Far over there is Tassiusaq Island about 10 miles away.

 

 

 

024 Now I am looking south at what is called Pamua on Qaersorssuasiaq island across but I see a huge group of icebergs over there.

 

 

 

025 This is the rocks where some birds are nesting.  There is a really dense group large tabular icebergs with one unstable dirty one out there too. I wonder what is around the corner for more bergs I have to consider when I am paddling.

 

 

 

026 Here is a wave probably from a breaking up iceberg over there that has dropped a huge chunk off.  I have to be on the watch for these steep waves so I don’t get grabbed or flipped by one.  These waves can send you surfing suddenly.

Farther away is Qaersorssuasiaq Island just a couple miles away.

 

 

 

027 More waves jumbled together, now I am turning around and exploring inside.  I will paddle outside on another day.